Show an upgraded coin

Just thought of this idea for us specialist collectors.

I collect early New Zealand coins and are in the process of "Upgrading" my coins from the standard average examples to the best I can afford. Generally for Florins and Halfcrowns - these are coins in Good - Fine condition and me upgrading them to anywhere between VF and AU.

Here is an example for you.



Left in the shot is a worn 1934 Florin in "Good" condition - generally the standard one you find them in. It is worth maybe melt value at most - 34 was a common year.

On the right is the upgraded coin which is gVF and quite hard to find, it cost me $25.

Just you guys can see how much better it is (More detail on the kind and the Kiwi's feathers are mostly sharp unlike the other coin, where only the middle feathers are visible).

Anyone else doing this - replacing a mediocre coin with a better one of the same type and even year?

引用する: "Moneytane"​
​Anyone else doing this - replacing a mediocre coin with a better one of the same type and even year?

​For me it depends on the design. Some coin designs appear nice when worn, but others look ugly. I don't think about it in terms on investment, but sometimes I care about aesthetics.
(I don't like coins with drilled holes.)
As an example, I have Thailand's 5 Baht 2520-2522 (1977-1979) which can be graded as F, but I would like to have much nicer specimen: https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces3839.html
My Victorian Hong Kong 1 cent is VG or so, but I find it just right: https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces5657.html

I don't really collect years of coins, but I do collect Japanese yen by year, so when I find a coin that is better than one I already have I definately replace it :)

Here are some triple upgrades.

Sadly my dumb phone camera, cut off the end of the most worn coins.



1934 Halfcrown - Good, gVG and gVF


1935 Florin - aVG, aFine and Very Fine

引用する: "Moneytane"​Here are some triple upgrades.
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​Sadly my dumb phone camera, cut off the end of the most worn coins.
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​1934 Halfcrown - Good, gVG and gVF
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​1935 Florin - aVG, aFine and Very Fine

​Nice upgrades there

My next one, a manky 1941 florin in Good+ condition (G6) replaced by one in VF30 - 35 condition, sold to me as EF but at a low price, its more a high VF (Like 90% of my upgraded coins) - Goodvf Tane should be my new name.



The pictures speak for themselves - The old coin cost me melt (About $4)
The new coin cost $27 (VF cat $30, EF $90).

The amount of detail on the Kiwi (All feathers), George - usual light wear on hair, brow and cheek - light black wear line expected on mid - high VF coins.

This coin (Upgraded one) is probably better than the 34 Florin above and similar to the 34 Halfcrown.

Mintage of 1941 Florins was middle level with 820,000 (Figures for silver florins range between 100k (1936) and 2.5million (1933)

Some Cupronickel Halfcrowns.

Generally these survive much better as Copper nickel was much more durable than silver. Still your average late 1940s and 1950s cupronickel piece is cloudy and shows some wear (gVG to gFine) and better coins from before 1951 are generally expensive


1948 upgrade from Fine to full EF - notice the detail and sharper detail of kings hair. the old coin is cloudy, the new one glossier - even if shine a bit dull (Sparkling coins are usually UNC).

Not cheap, coins on left (And that is a better than usual one - 50c - $2 ea, coin on right try $50)

1949 a fairly decent before coin (Fine+ - gFine) and a stunning replacement - gEF - but this coin has a light verdigris stain on the crown - can be treated though


This one is definitely shinier!

1950 coin - Type 2 narrow date with rim - the replacement coin is also EF - gEF and was cheaper ($32 vs $45 for the 1949).



Wear on the king's hair is more subtle than silver - no black wear but more flat detail. VF examples of the 1950 are cheapish as many were issued in late 1963 after some were found shoved in the back of a vault (1950 saw the largest issue of halfcrowns - 3.6million and not all were released, 1951 had a big number too and these were released in place of 250k extra 1950s and thus were only released in 1963 during a halfcrown shortage).

The before coin here is not that bad - gFine -aVF and you can see even it has a bit of shine - but notice its hair detail is hazier and the left mask's lips still have some wear.

However full EF coins are scarce.

And unlike silver dates, the difference between EF and UNC coins of this date is 2x - 3x more rather than 5x - 10x more, but I have never seen an uncirculated 1950 Halfcrown!

Nice job young man!

For anyone wanting to learn the sublime art of coin grading, please pay attention. Over the years I've found that grading individual coins doesn't really help but showing the differences across a range of identical coins really illustrates the point.

Thanks Pnightingale - I agree

Hold the coins in your hand and examine their surfaces. Hence why I always started on common ones like old 10 cent coins of New Zealand and my goal was easy for this series.

My plan of attack for the "Stunning collection" of New Zealand Predecimal coins

1. Accumulate as many old New Zealand (1933 - 1965) coins as you can in standard condition.

2. Start upgrading them by denomination (1st halfcrown, now florins too) and watch the collection change.

3. Watch your collection grow in status (As often many better coins are bought separately, whereas coins in "standard" condition - often come in sets and groups or thrown in larger groups). Just about every VF and EF halfcrown and Florin I have bought (And there are more than just in this thread - most are on recent additions to your collection threads), has been a solo purchase or in groups of 2 to 4 from one dealer, but each coin a separate lot.

4. Don't get frustrated when you can't buy UNC, and nothing wrong with slight upgrades too. Recently I upgraded a group of 1947 - 1951 Florins in VG - Fine to a group that was Fine+ to VF, hardly much change - but the detail was better and these coins looked nicer - yet they cost me just $1 each compared to 30c for the worn ones. Buying EF examples will cost me more than the halfcrowns.

For the collector on a budget - no one would turn these guys down, they are a group of 70 year old coins after all.

This slightly better than average group was very cheap. Okay they are not eye popping stunners - but they will do until eye popping stunners come along and its not a bad group for standard coins.

Until recently (2000s) many dealers sold old NZ in EF and better and any coin under EF was loaded in with "Average Circulated" so some dates a shiny VF coin like the 1947 Florin was lumped in cloudy and worn flat Good - VG ones.

Now of course VF coins are recognised as a step above average for pre 1960 material and often command premiums on average coins.

5. Every now and then you will see a bargain that appeals to you, but tests your budget - if its really unique in your eyes, and you can afford it - get it. I had no regrets buying this 1945 AU halfcrown as it was marked way down for toning and a spot. This is the lone eagle coin that says buy me and love me.

Such a coin would cost $100 or more, but trivial defects bought it down to a bearable $40. It's a very nice coin and definitely lifts the tone of the page. Yet many snooty collectors would reject it outright.

But be realistic - I really wanted an AU 1935 3d and Halfcrown

However these were too expensive and out of my budget and I was a bit concerned about the dates being fixed - after all coins this expensive I would only buy off a proper dealer and ask prominence on them. Whereas a VF 1935 half crown that cost say $50 - I would easily buy off anyone that looked good (I am still searching for 33s and 35s).

6. Every collector is different, has different desires in grading and this is just what excites me with coins - I try not show off, but find it fun. I love honest used coins and are now keeping all the before coins - because they are interesting (Of course apart from my show ponies).

7. Have fun - to me the thrill of the chase is the best part - its actually very ordinary once the show and tell part is over and you now have the coin sitting there, settled and the chase and pursuit ended.

Little upgrade here for my 25 CÉNTIMOS 1925 - Alfonso XIII

OLD


NEW


Nothing too much better but at least a lot of the details are not "crushed"

I can see the difference there - probably like you say a VG coin up to a high Fine one - but much more detailed and better eye appeal. Nothing wrong with making baby steps when you can. A nicer coin begs to be bought.

Even better is if you find an even better example you can do a progression shot like mine, where you put all the coins together to show the improvements!

Glad to see someone else adding to this cool thread.

good thread. I have been doing this. i will put some examples together soon.

I thought about participating in this thread since I saw it for first time, i just had my collection kilometers away and simply wasnt posible

I will bring only a few examples once in a while since bringing everything would be a mess and too much time consuming

This time I think I bring a nice upgrade of my 1 Escudo 1927 - Portugal (not only in grade but also on price, 1cent vs 2euros )

OLD


NEW


Realy like the desing of the portuguese escudo and 50 centavos that lasted a few decades

P.d.: Moneytane, soon I will bring my halfcrowns to the thread you made about them... turns out I have 4 while I thought I had 2

here is one to start. I have an interest in Morocco, mostly 20th century.
The 1370 5 Franc in aluminum, is probobly one of the most circulated Moroccan coins of all time, and certainly one of the least interesting from a numismatic point of view.
I have any number of these in more or less circulated condition, from mixed lots.

recently I got this encapulated gem, also in a lot, and I admit I rather like it

That is stunning, the cased coin is a massive upgrade!

This one is not as big a step up as I had hoped, but is certainly an improvement.



besides being worn to VG at best, the old one is damaged with a disturbing graffiti on the face of Ceres, which can only be a hangman's gibbet.

Appearance wise, the after coin is a huge improvement, no damage and a complete rim at bottom. I think you did well.

Condition upgrading is not the only thing - appearance counts too, your second coin is probably aFine/Fine but appearance goes from a D to a B+.

Radical upgrade of a Siberian 10 kopeks coin:)




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引用する: "Grinya"​Radical upgrade of a Siberian 10 kopeks coin:)
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​Outstanding - Upgraded in every way - that is a stunning coin

引用する: "Grinya"​Radical upgrade of a Siberian 10 kopeks coin:)
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​Nice 👏

And I am back with some more upgraded Kiwi silver



Here we have a common date 1943 Florin. My existing coin was VG with some stains - it basically cost me melt. The upgraded coin is a full EF example, it cost me $40.

The main difference is the detail on the Kiwi, only some centre rump feathers remain on the VG coin and much smoothness on the body. The lettering is also very flat.
George is flat, with the central hair part just visible, cheek and face are smooth, ear tip incomplete, although his lips are discernable. The usual dull grey colour of worn NZ silver is also present (This florin was one of the better ones of the original set I bought - its a better than average starter coin).

The EF coin has an all over lustre, almost no wear on the hair and cheek (No flattening except near flattening on the tip of the cheekbone, which always wears first on coins of this era). The Kiwi is sharp along with lettering, although the feathers around its butt, show some light wear (A high point).

This is my first fully EF Florin and good to compare to VF ones like shown here. Being 1943, this is a common date and thus an EF coin is easy to find.


EF and VF - notice the EF coin has more lustre and almost no wear on Kiwi, the VF has clear wear and flattening on the Kiwi's neck, his butt and flank and inner leg/groin feathers. These areas are nearly flat on the VF piece.

On the EF these areas have light wear, but all the feather detail is there unlike the VF coin. The lustre also stands out. The VF coin is nice, but the EF is a stunner.

Some truly UNC silver Florins can nearly burn your retinas, lustre on these coins bounces!

Little upgrade of my 5 Francs from France 1947

OLD


NEW


Nothing special but at least with the new one I got much more lustre, a portait a bit sharper and less scratches

I am moving down to the Shillings now.

Here is a 1934 VG to Extremely Fine, the latter coin was quite pricey!


For all these shillings the worn coins had been cleaned. Cleaning is a real issue here in New Zealand, sadly about 75% of all coins for sale on Trade Me seem to be cleaned - I have never cleaned a coin in my life and are against it personally.



1935 VG to gVF, this is a more scarce date and thus an EF coin is more unaffordable on my budget, so I settle for a gVF piece, which is still great as you get lustre and only the jewels on the crown are slight less sharp.



1937 a common date and thus my before coin is close to fine, but also cleaned - so I replaced it with another gVF example. Again you see how much better the latter coin is and how to tell a cleaned coin apart from one with natural lustre.

Here is the difference between a VG Sixpence and one in EF



The flat and lifeless huia comes alive, there is lustre and just look
at the difference in detail of the King.

An upgrade in every way for only $15!

I have been doing a lot of this lately.

Like you, Moneytane, I collect New Zealand pre-decimals. At last check, I had about 59% of the set completed. I have been concentrating on Half pennies recently, and have upgraded from mostly VF-XF to Unc+. I am very happy with my '40s and '60s 1/2ds (and in fact, am in the process of sending the 40s coins off to PCGS) and am looking forward to upgrading the '50s coins, hopefully within the next month or two.

Then I will do the same with my Pennies. Once I've gotten a decent chunk of my mortgage paid off, I'll start on the 3ds and 6ds (leaving my 1935 til last, as it's already XF anyway). My 5ds have been mostly bought in Unc in the first place, so have little work to do there, except 1944.

I'll post some photos tomorrow when I have my day off.

Great,

I haven't even started on the copper yet, just down to sixpences and shillings. not in a position to mortgage a house, but plan is to go UNC when I become real wealthy. Now happy with VF for scarcer coins and EF for the common dates and even UNC for 60s coins. Upgrading the Halfcrowns was quite cheap - but I spent some serious money on the Florins. Interestingly my collection originally was missing a lot of the Florins like about 7 of them and now its complete. They were not cheap - $125 for 1936, $80 for 1944, $55 ea for 1942 and the 1946 Flatback etc.

Only the 1945 was cheap at $12 and its really a high Fine, I may upgrade that with an EF for $40 or so.


The famous really high VF 1951 Halfcrown and a much better 1953 Florin (Close to AU but slight staining). Seriously its so close to EF you can nearly cry.

The hardest I find are upgrading 1947 - 1951 coins, they are plentiful up to goodFine for 1947/50 and VF+ for 1951 but costly as we approach EF. I bought a 51 cheaply hoping it was a EF, but really its just a very high VF (gVF - aEF) still a nice coin and a step up - but I may have to open that wallet further.

Can't wait to see what you have!

There is a lot of stuff between VF and EF that gets ignored and you can find some pretty coins there.

Yes, I'm looking forward to getting some photos up (my holidays start on Friday night, so I can devote all my energies to the important things... coins, beer and following the Tour de France). It's nice to chat with someone who loves the New Zealand coins as much as I do. It took Australia decades to catch up with NZ style-wise (even then, some of the NZ stuff I've seen recently blows us out of the water).

Care to share any secrets to becoming "real wealthy"?

Nah, I know the secret. Stop spending money on UNC coins and put it into the market while the economy still sucks!

Also, I just upgraded my French 1918 Franc, so I'll have to post photos of those when the new one arrives.

Interesting thread. Some upgrades are spectacular out there.

Some of mine

King of France Charles VI, blanc guenar, before and after :





French revolution, 5 centimes grand module, before and after :

this is possibly no upgrade at all, but have a look-
these three silver coins struck on common planchets are probobly uncirculated.


I recently found a matched set in ANACS slabs for an attractive price

Potator - great upgrades, especially the medieval coin, but I love the French revolution one too, its like from aGood up to high VF at least!

Mr Midnight, I definitely see improvement there, the Monagesque coin is a definitie upgrade, the slabbed coin is much shinier, yet I agree the original 3 were hardly poor examples. You have taken some A grade coins and upgraded them with A+ ones.

Most of mine are more C grade coins upgraded with B+ ones!

Some British coins upgrades, we will start nice and easy.



1930 Florin - from gFine up to EF



1931 Florin - from Fine to gVF

English Halfcrowns (They get more spectacular!!!)


1938 Cleaned aVF to Cleaned gEF


1896 Incredibly worn Good+ up to gEF!


1891 aVG up to EF (The quality of detail and beauty shoots up for
these designs in high grade!

These 2 King George IV coins just show the most improvement.
90% of halfcrowns this era are like the before coin or not much better
probably under 5% are as nice as the after coins.


1826 Decent VG all the way up to AU magnificence - probably my best Halfcrown


1820 - the biggest spread, from a disc worn down to Poor/Fair all the way up to a
cleaned historically good EF example. This level of upgrade is probably
the most extreme in my collection. The worn coin is like half as thick as the
unworn one!

The florins might be the standard B- to B+ upgrade, but that Halfcrown is like a F to a A- upgrade!

My lastest upgrade, quite visual

Lovely, that is exactly the type of coin you want the most detail on. Those French colonial Magrib coins always had those beautiful and elaborate designs and sadly they worn down fast in the hot climate. So to get nice examples is great.

I have a few of those coins, mostly 1950s and brass or aluminium (1, 10 and 50 Francs).



The 50 Francs is worn, but the low values are nice!

Latest upgrade, a 1931 UK florin:


to replace this:

Wow, a AU/low grade MS replaced with a high grade MS.

Score, so my high grade VF is not on the same level?





Before coin is gFine, after coin gVF.

Gothic Florin, if we put all 4 of our coins together, we have a 4 stage progression. Your 2 near the top and my 2 near the bottom! All we need is someone to find a really worn one.

Hey! Did some upgrades since the last time around here. Nevertheless I bring here the last ones:

Prussian 3 pfenninge:


Bronze is so much prettier with a bit of shine to it.

引用する: "epizeuxisofhapaxes"​Prussian 3 pfenninge:
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​Bronze is so much prettier with a bit of shine to it.

​I'm not sure that I'd prefer right, not left....:)

Why? Something wrong?

Or you prefer the toning?

yes, without toning the right coin seems to be nacked:)

Yes, the original is pretty nice too, if a little circulated.

Thankfully I don't have to choose!

Interesting and helpful thread ... Good idea in reviving it!

Here a nice upgrading story of PERU 1/2 SOL 1943 S (San Francisco mint, USA):

A)

This was my first one, when this coins were still in circulation (about 1971 or 1972); I got it probably in my change buying some chocolates or comics ......

B)

Two or three years later : a neat improvement, thanks to a swap at school (I remember I gave 2 or 3 chilean of the newly introducede Peso coins in exchange). Inflation was forcing Peru's circulating coins to desappear - but those coins were still used together with the new model with had the nice lama on it's reverse).

C)

This one was the next step: I got it in the early eighties in a numismatic shop, the coin was already demonetized ..... in spite of the typical spots of Peruvian brass coins of that time a nice coin with clear and sharp design.

and D)

.... bought in an auction in 2001, beautiful toned AU, and I think this is the definitive one in my collecion

Regards

christianvl - nice timeline & story

Here's my newly acquired upgrade : Un décime Napoleon, minted at Strasbourg during the city blockade

Before and after

ChristianVL

Love your story, a 4 part upgrade process is so cool. My guess on grades for you.
1st coin - G to G+, 2nd high VG, 3rd aEF - gVF, 4th borderline UNC

I have some more coming soon, upgrading a whole lot of kiwi shillings and sixpences, meanwhile a slight upgrade here for you.


Apologies for bad photo - VF 1943S Fijian Florin

to

Bare EF 1943S Florin, the obv is full EF, but George has a bit more cheek wear (Its 90% silver high relief)

A different date, but same type of coin and this is full AU/UNC
Also 1942S Fijian Florins are same mintage and rarity factor as 1943s (C1)


So a 3 step progression there, even if one coin is a different date

I'm heavy into the NGC registry and do this all the time with my competitive sets.

1829 Halfcrown


From Good (British Fair)
to

High Fine (American VF - VF+)

Cost of these things is exponential!

Only a slight improvement here, but with New Zealand higher grade silver, the price differential is 4 times more!


1933 VF/gVF Halfcrown - a nice example by itself



1933 EF Halfcrown - does not look much different but notice

1. The left set of lips is distinct rather than discernable
2. You can see a clear demarcation of rim from the beading
3. Overall relief is higher
4. The 2nd pair of pearls in the crown band are sharp, the VF coin they are joined
5. Crown band is sharp and raised from the head.
6. Much more lustre and shinier detail on the bust and devices of the shield (Yes its a bit grubby too, but NZ is a warm and humid place and few coins survive in pure clean condition).

We seldom have the opportunity to upgrade ancient coins with the exact same type.

Here are my former Gordian III denarius RIC #111 and its successor

Both of those are lovely, but I can already see how much sharper your upgraded coin is there, and a nice obscure mid 3rd century emperor too. They went through emperors then like Aussies went through Prime Ministers now!

Here is my next halfcrown comparison, a worn 1894 British Halfcrown in Fair (G - VG condition) replaced by a toned beauty that zooms past the EF category. The joy of late Victorian Halfcrowns is the EF/AU coins barely cost into the hundreds - so much coin for so little money. This one which is a solid EF to gEF with a slight bump, cost just $135. The worn coin cost me £8 from an Englishman (I will always buy gap fillers, whilst hunting down the creamy coins).



Again the upgraded coin is much better in the flesh, my camera does not have a "glossy" setting!

My recent upgrades.

Austrian 1 corona 1893



and Serbian 1 dinar 1879

Those are great upgrades Milan!

引用する: "Moneytane"​Those are great upgrades Milan!

​Thanks, Moneytane.

As a newbie, I've bought coins, not paying much attention to their quality. After more than a year of collecting, I've established my criteria for grading coins, and I'm more focused on the quality of the coins.

Very nice thread! Congratulations to everyone who was able to upgrade their beautiful coins!

Here is my most recent upgrade:
(Mainz thaler)

Great coin, that is some improvement!

I am assuming its one of those dates included in the inscription in Roman Numerals.
I get 1657?

引用する: "Moneytane"​Great coin, that is some improvement!
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​I am assuming its one of those dates included in the inscription in Roman Numerals.
​I get 1657?

​Thank you, it is quite large as well.

Both coins are dated in arabic numerals (check the reverse, one is dated on the top, the other on the bottom)

https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces167975.html

https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces167988.html

One era of British silver coins that is usually always found worn is coins of the early 1920s. In 1920 the silver coins were reissued in 50% silver, the first such debasement since the 1540s coinage of Henry VIII caused by bankruptcy from wars. It was the same in 1920 sans the egotistical execution happy polygamous king.

Yes George V was happily married to Mary since 1893 and had no interest in executing anyone let alone his wife or some unloyal earl and definitely in no mind to start a new religion! Also our George remained slender up to his death in 1936. But what it meant was the new coins had debased silver due to the price of it. WW1 and its aftermath saw the collapse of many fine silver and gold coinages. Gold all but disappeared except as bullion collectibles by 1933. Many countries which had .900 fine silver crowns and pesos, now issued coins that were smaller and had 72% or less silver (Some like Germany, Poland, Austria etc moved to base metal coins entirely) and inflation happened badly too.

The UK was lucky and the pound was stable compared to say Germany and Austria and even France. The first permutation of these coins was 50% silver, 40% copper and 10% nickel as a whitener to replicate the look of the sterling coins that were minted to 1919 (Well some 1920 threepences were still .925 for a while).

The coins wore badly and because the silver price never went above the value of the coin until a small time in WW2 that led to cupronickel coins in 1947, these half silver pieces remained in circulation through to 1971 and even the 1990s when the old 10p, 5p coins were shrunk in size and made out of even cheaper and nastier metal (Plastic and paper coins are coming).

Most 1920 to 1935 coins are found in Fine or lower shape and some are even flat disks! Here I have 2 shillings with a typical one and a better example. The catalogues have these coins very cheap to VF, but very expensive above it. The 1922 shilling is £5 in VF and £40 in EF!


1921 Shilling, left coin is barely good and worn as heck cleaned rubbish. The coin on right cost me just $8 and I have graded it near VF, hardly rare - but a kazillion times nicer, would you not agree. Its also not cleaned either.

Even better is the 1922 coin. This almost EF example cost me just $28!


The left coin is basically the most worn flat rubbish I brought in a communal bulk lot. It might be the nastiest shilling ever made. The right coin is poetry in motion. It has shine and detail and really is a collection worthy piece.

Both worn examples here have been badly cleaned in the past, mainly as they wore quickly and turned a greenish black colour. The nickel was plated on top and wore off at lightning speed (Hence why you should aim for the highest grade possible with 1920/22 dated coins). Later in 1922 they ditched the nickel and just had the 50/50 mix of Silver and copper which again gave the awful gungy Green/Poo/Black colour as the coins wore.

Finally in 1927 they switched to the famous Quarternary alloy which was 50% silver (The silver amount remained constant in the 3 types), 40% copper, 5% Nickel and 5% Zinc which made a great bonder and also moderated the other metals from staining ugly colours. Usually worn 1927 - 1946 silver just goes a blackish or faded gray colour.

Very interesting story, Moneytane. I enjoyed reading.

My latest upgrade.

Serbia 2 Dinara 1897

Looks like a great coin became an outstanding one.

1926 UK shilling, worn rubbish in my collection vs a new purchase


Coin on left, barely decipherable


And EF!

1849 Godless Florins - Venus vs Mars here.

1849 Florin I bought in April 2019

Worn as all heck (I need to stop to calling my coins "rubbish").

1849 Florin I bought in December 2021

Its like Fair vs Extremely Fine (Well close to EF, many of my coins are in this nether region between gVF and EF).

None of my coins really are "rubbish", they all do their jobs and the recent batch of "rubbish" before shillings are still silver pieces worth a few bucks.

This was a nice upgrade for my type set I’ve been working on even though they are a different t mint

PCGS AU58


PCGS MS63


Matt

Time for a bump, my latest coin upgrades of Florins and Halfcrowns from Britain.


1817 Halfcrown Bull Head type, from Fair to VF (A huge improvement)


1900 Halfcrown, from gVG to almost EF (Historically cleaned)


1901 Halfcrown, from VG to gEF but polished and dipped coin


1928 Florin, from near Fine to EF


1939 Florin, from gFine to AU (My camera does not capture lustrous coins well)


1942 Florin, from nearVF to full Uncirculated!


1943 Florin, from gFine to a high AU

Great contrasts here.

1887 Swiss Franc

This thread has been quiet for a while! No doubt about the 1937, but not sure which 1935 to keep (“A” or “B”). Any suggestions?

1935 “A”

1935 “B”

You are right, have not done this thread for a LONG time.

As regards Florins, definitely B - A though may appeal to those who love toning. Lucky person I don't even have any 1930s Irish Florins, I have a decent 1928, 1940 and 1942 and then the cupronickel ones. Although you may have seen I got a very high grade 1941 shilling.

 

But in the spirit of this thread - 1878 Halfcrown UK

 

  

Before - Good condition

 

After - Extremely Fine or better!

 

Even older and better is the 1819 Halfcrown!

 

 

Good - high detail wore very quickly, but full lettering and clear rim

 

 

Pretty close to extremely fine!

1836 Halfcrown

 

 

Decent VG example - Before, but as you can see, the curtains wear very fast.

 

Replaced with this rare EF example, this coin cost $600!!!

This was a much-needed upgrade:

 

But the old coin has some sentimental value, as I received it in change in February 1976 (florins were still in circulation in those days, though it was rare to find pre-1947 let alone pre-1921).

That old coin is hard one, its not worn (High VF), but has some fairly unattractive toning, yet that coin oozes so much personality, it must have been a hard choice to upgrade it.

 

I hope you keep it anyway - you have had it longer than I have been alive!

 

 

My own 1899 is pretty good too (Compared to most of my Victorian Florins!). Has some nice light wear and a good darkish feel. Probably close to EF. But I have not had it since 1976 - more likely 2022 according to my files!

I just discovered an upgrade in my collection - 

I bought the lower San Marino 5c. at a show two weeks ago. 

Opening boxes this morning that I haven't looked in in a while, I found the upper coin mixed in with 19th century Greece copper lepta. I really have no recollection of owning it.🙄

That's neat !

Mr. Midnight

I just discovered an upgrade in my collection - 

I bought the lower San Marino 5c. at a show two weeks ago. 

Opening boxes this morning that I haven't looked in in a while, I found the upper coin mixed in with 19th century Greece copper lepta. I really have no recollection of owning it.🙄

 

Nice upgrade, I haven’t really seen many coins from San Marino before. It is quite a nice design.

 

Here is an upgrade of mine - an Australian 1934-35 Melbourne Centenary Florin. This was the original one I purchased a few years back. It is around the VF range, which is the lowest you will really find this coin in. It has got a few hairlines, but is still a nice example. It doesn’t have that Chinese fake look to it in person.

 

And here is the upgrade. This one is a lot nicer with a full wreath on the rider, and is very lustrous in person. I actually paid more for the first one than this one by about $100, which is surprising.

about sweden, 5 öre, Oskar II.

With a big lot I got every year of the period 1874-1907. Common and average condition of these types seems to be vg/f.

My former best piece of 1883:

Now I found a very nice coin, xf in my opinion:

would be too expensive to upgrade more years like this.

Better than XF in my opinion. Looks like loads of red mint lustre in the photos.

I am fond of the Scandinavian ore coins. that's a nice find.

just to add - the old one if nice too, looks like brass inclusions in the planchet sheet stock. 

I've been slowly upgrading most of the coins in my Japan Type set it came with a ton of aged/worn out coins.

 

Original coins

 

Updated album 

 

-Upgraded the 20 Sen to a BU example,

 

Upgraded the 1941 1 Sen to a prooflike example, 

 

 

The 5 Sen (1945) & 50 Sen (1946) were Upgraded to unc & au examples.

 

 

In a unfortunate situation I had purchased a unc 1 Sen (1945) to replace the corroded one Sen in my album however it was stolen by a porch pirate before I got home to retrieve it.

 

I haven't decided if I will replace the 20 Sen Bu with my Prooflike example Yet..

Old 20 sen (bu)

 

Prooflike 20 Sen (Dispite the flatness it has a good mirror in the fields)

Hi all, 

 

Two recent and nice upgradings in my Ecuador collection: 

 

  a) 10 CENTAVOS 1937

 

  

 

 

 

b) 1 SUCRE 1937

 

 

 

 

 

Regards

33doubleeagle

A  big upgrade in my wheat cent 

A terrible coin ☹️, but i found it in a public park!

 Upgraded: 

Still a fairly bad coin, but it’s way better than the first

Can't really tell as the photos are too blurry and small. You need to crop your photos, so we can see the coins more clearly.

Sorry, I’m new here just getting the hang of it 

here’s the bad coin

It’s in quite terrible condition, but it was a street find (in a park) 

the upgrade:

I had the bad one and some other wheat cents, and then i bought an incomplete Whitman book, so I have lots of wheat cents for swap

makarijeVery interesting story, Moneytane. I enjoyed reading.

My latest upgrade.

Serbia 2 Dinara 1897

Nicely done! the older one is still quite good. 

 

I have upgrade the 1 Dinar of the same millisime.

33doubleeagle

Sorry, I’m new here just getting the hang of it 

here’s the bad coin

It’s in quite terrible condition, but it was a street find (in a park) 

the upgrade:

I had the bad one and some other wheat cents, and then i bought an incomplete Whitman book, so I have lots of wheat cents for swap

I don't know, under the communists, when I went to school, we were taught that people were bad in America.     I've never been there - I'm just fascinated that nothing has changed.   Putting one cent into the collection in such a condition is simply not done for one's own coins from one's country.  In such a condition, I will not even put Hellenistic coins similar to Greece into the collection.  Here is an example of what I am going to abgrade.  I change most of the pennies and put them all in plastic boxes.  Although this plastic is PVC-free - the coins have been there for 20 years without a problem.

But even here in the heart of Europe, pennies do not grow or fall on trees.   "There is a numismatic rule - we put only XF and UNC into the collection of coins from our own country - however, we try to get all the "brilliant"

Hello and good luck in numismatics.

Ivan

Because I obtained many small coins from the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy of Emperor Francis Joseph from the auction, they are being gradually checked and changed.   But specifically, (clean the coin)  was upset that it wasn't even worth cleaning.  After all, he will exchange it for a nicer one and it will be up for exchange sometime.  So I just want to show that there are big differences in the coins that we exchange.

 

 

The Austro-Hungarian monarchy has its aluminum suitcase with salaries - it deserves it.

Ahoj Ivan

I added  an new Sardinia Piemonte coin :)

I just found a coin I have in two, quite different, grades.

 

The coin in question is: N#27165 

 

My first addition:

 

My upgraded coin:

why do we buy no-perfect coins again and again? I don't know and i did it too, very often and doing it further..

This is one of the few exceptions, replacing a vg coin, which came within a mixed lot.

A slightly better look, but this is from 1513 - so that's quite old and the circulation has also left some wear.  But they are recognized as an improvement.  Sigismund I. Poland-Lithuanian Commonwealth.

Stefan0205

why do we buy no-perfect coins again and again?

Probably because many of the coins I and most of have shown are scarce or expensive in high grades and lower grade examples are much cheaper. So when we get a higher grade one, we feel proud as its rarer and more expensive.

hi all,

I could do an upgrade pf modern commemotatives, this one is my favourite:

coin isn't coloured, reflecting the certificate.

Watching an auction of catawiki i couldn't resist to give the final bids for 5 proof versions of pprtuguese silver commemoratives 1996- 2000. According to numista catalog, they are separate types because they are made of Ag925 (standard type is Ag500). This seems more precise than nessesary to me.

Polish 2 zloty 1968 N#2760 (heavily worn up to very fine)

Just managed to upgrade this…

 

N#682 

Hi all, 

A new nice upgrading for my Perú collection

 

2 CENTAVOS 1895  (KM # 188.2)

 

 

 

 

 

Regards

Just found this over the weekend (left)…

N#5688 

 

Some Swiss rappen pieces

Hi!

looking at posts in this thread, I cannot but wonder: why - in the first place - have you purchased a coin you are looking to upgrade? 

Another observation: while some upgrades are really significant, others are almost undetectable, so why?

The way I see it is either find the right coin or leave the gap until you do.

I can't speak for anyone else,  my methodology is for upgrading and why I started this thread is a trophy type thing, but most of my upgrades are of better and less seen coins. My Kiwi silver for instance is plentiful in grades up to VF and even high VF, but truly EF and better coins are as scarce as hens teeth.

 

I am one of those people whom loves to fill date runs for many types of British, NZ, Canadian, USA etc coins and often will buy a low grade example of a date or type I need just to fill a space. After all a genuine example of a coin you need is better than an empty space and it will do until a dream coin lands in your lap. Plus living in New Zealand, I will never balk at the chance to buy say a 1843 Halfcrown in poor condition, when in all 6 years of collecting coins, I have never seen one and I will buy it. Yet say in 6 months, someone has that same coin in Fine - so I will likely buy it too and thus “upgrade”. Yet if someone has it in MS64 for $8000, I will not buy that as I would have spent around $30 for the worn one and $200 or so for its upgrade.

 

Or a date like say a 1905 UK Halfcrown is just so rare, that a worn coin may be all you can get or afford.

 

Plus in many cases, I see finding a real upgrade as a real triumph. Some of the 1700s and 1800s coins have massive differentials in prices between VF and EF or higher grades and thus finding a genuine high grade example is like a major achievement in my life.

 

As for some of the more marginal upgrades. Each to their own, some people are very happy with what we perceive as lesser gains, but so what its a free world. You will notice that all of mine are genuine upgrades of mostly better and more desirable coins (Halfcrowns etc).

Mr. Midnight

Some Swiss rappen pieces

 

 

I really like these, the fact that these lower denomination Swiss coins have now been circulating for over 140 years in some cases and yet coming amongst an 1880s coin that is EF or better is a nice surprise. I mean no way it could have circulated all that time, or 5 generations of people have been real careful with it. Or I suspect it circulated from saw 1885 to 1891, got taken out of circulation and someone say in 2019 found it and mistakened it for a coin dated 1984 and put it back in.

 

Here's my best 1880s Swiss coin.

 

 

This 20 Rappen is easily AU, original lustre and almost no wear of any type.

 

Its only the 10 and 20 rappen you will find now, that can go back to the 1870s (Earlier coins had a shield like this 1850), and they also had a trace amount of silver in them (10%). I think it was 1878 or 1879 the shield got replaced by Helvetia. The 5 rappen was replaced by a brass coloured 5 rappen around 1980. The 1 and 2 rappen coins were demonitised around 1980 I think.

 

 

Yes its yucky looking and holed, but remove the gunk and its easily VF.

 

You would also get circulating franc coins, but they dropped the silver content in 1968 and thus they only go back to then now. However say in 1967, you may have found coins in your change going back to 1870.

Just for you all, a less spectacular upgrade.

1846 UK Halfcrown - scarce coin to find, despite a common date for type

 

Also not every upgrade will be night and day or 180 degrees, rather than a 2 to a King, this is a 2 to a 5.

 

  

First one I bought a year - probably about Good to Fair (American Fair2, not UK Fair which is like Good to VG) - nightmare inducing.

And its even been cleaned.

 

   

The one I bought last month - probably higher VG grade (VG10 for Americans) - okay its not grand, but its a lot better than what it replaced.

Seriously 1840s halfcrowns - this is as good as they get if you want to get change from $100. Also not cleaned.

 

Even better is the upgrade cost me just $35 and the original I stupidly paid $40 for.

That's about how I play the game as well. I get on to a type, these Swiss rappen for example, and I want to fill out a date set. I travel to visit a little shop, or find a seller at a show who has world coins (not that common in the States), and I get every single date he can provide, that I don't have yet. I am not “waiting for the right coin”, every coin I buy is the right coin at that moment, and I have no regrets for having multiple examples of some.